A whatsapp came in one day. “You have to come here and know this. Just come over for dinner and stay, we have rooms upstairs.”
We had met Caco Agrasar in February 2014 at the Fórum Gastronómico in Coruña. Jorge was introducing his workshop – we knew about him and his 1 Michelin star restaurant of course, but had never had the chance to get to know him in person. At the workshop we not only discovered a chef whose cuisine is simple yet full of flavour, we also found out that he and Jorge are relatives!
So it was with double pleasure that we drove up the coast to Malpica, on the Costa da Morte a.k.a. Death Coast. Double? Make it triple: Costa da Morte is one of our favourite regions in Galicia: empty beaches, wild waves (careful!) and breathtaking views.
As Garzas really feels like it is on the edge of the world and I wonder how people got there before GPS – although its remoteness is more apparent than real, as it’s just under an hour drive from Coruña city. Located a few metres from the rocky shore, it’s perfect for a weekend getaway: you can explore the Northern coast first, then have dinner there, stay in one of its cosy four rooms upstairs and you have all the following day to look around.
What can you expect at As Garzas?
Simplicity. From the setup at the table, to the service, to the food in your plates, I think simple resumes it pretty well. Simple as in clean, clear, true to its origins. Simple like the prawn, simply cooked on a bed of aromatic salt. Clean like the white asparagus with green beans and lime. Clear like the windows that fill up the dining room with the sky and the waves.
Freshness. Seafood is the thing here. Local, fresh fish and seafood: prawns, small shrimps, mussels, spider crab, hake, turbot. The morning after, chatting with Caco during breakfast, we saw the fishmongers coming in with their produce: tiny shrimps still alive and a huge turbot which had just been fished out of the sea.
Views. The views are everything here. Even at night you can still sense the presence of the Ocean out there, and Caco knows it, so he makes sure that you get the best table. Those dishes make all the sense right there.
Silence. Here I’m lying, you’ll actually listen to a lot of noise: there’s no way you can shut the sea down, so you’ll be listening to the constant rolling of the waves. If you’re staying over it will put you to sleep, which for me it’s just priceless!
The menu is at 60€ (plus drinks). Doubles start at 73€, breakfast is included except in high season (Easter week, and from the 15th of July to the 1st of September). Breakfast is nice and personal, I highly recommend it!