Bread in Spain has been undergoing a revolution in the last few years, bringing back good quality natural bread – as opposed to cheap supermarket fare which was hardly recognizable as belonging to the bread family.
Thankfully in Galicia good bread never disappeared and the average quality of the bread you can find in shops and restaurants is superior than in the rest of Spain.
In Santiago there’s a bakery we really like, Pan da Moa. It belongs to the Moscoso Moure, a family whose baking business goes back five generations. The youngest baker, Guillermo, has taken upon himself to give traditional bread a modern boost, making it more visible and making sure that people know what they’re buying. Because as with many traditional things just keeping it going isn’t enough: you have to study it and talk about it, so that people remember what it is that makes that thing traditional and still worth our attention.
Guillermo and his father bake every day the most traditional Santiago breads: cornecho, little hard rolls that look like horns; rosca, a bread shaped like a ring; bolla, a flat and wide white bread, which in its roll version is just perfect for hamburgers (not traditional, I know, but who cares?); brona, a rye and corn flour bread, slightly acidic, which is really unique to Northwestern Spain and Portugal; and last but not least the Santiago mollete (not to be confused with Mollete from Antequera), with its characteristic pointy top.
They also bake empanadas, savoury pies filled with meat (usually seasoned pork) or fish (salt-cod, little sardines, tuna or other seafood) and sweet delicacies such as simple cakes and croissants.
There are three Pan Da Moa shops in Santiago, none of them in the historical centre but one, where the bakery also is, very close to the Camino de Santiago, just after the Monte do Gozo, in the San Lazaro district. I think that a little detour for a piece of empanada or a nice loaf of bread would be the perfect ending to the Walk!
Pan da Moa
Rúa do Cubelo, 27
Santiago de Compostela
981 552 352
Rúa de Madrid, 15 – Fontiñas
981 574 507